Thanks so much for going on this 10 part journey with me. This week I am going to give you all the check points, I use every time I see an item of clothing on the Client’s body. It is a long email as I break each checklist down for item of clothing and I hope you will find it useful!
If you have just joined us on this 10 part journey I strongly suggest you click on the previous parts at the bottom of this newsletter and take your time taking in the information.
I am going to take it as a given that you know what is missing from your wardrobe, that you know what styles and colours to look for, that you have worked out a budget to stick to and that you have planned a couple of stores to visit to try things on. You may have even looked on-line first to go through collections to get inspiration. As you walk into store you follow the tips from part 7 in spotting looks and you stick to the patterns that you love.
A really important part of creating a wardrobe that you love, is to go through all the elements of your potential new purchase while you are trying the pieces in the change room.
Settling for less in this moment can cost you lots of money and disappointment. In fact, it is the moment that will decide if you are adding an item that you love wearing to your collection or that the item will gather dust in your wardrobe.
Remember that wearing only 20% of your wardrobe could possibly mean $6000 being tied up in clothes that are busy getting eaten by moths and turning a nice shade of yellow in the cupboard. (refer to part 1 below if you want to get more wardrobe tips)
I often witness the built-up excitement from seeing the items in the store, seeing them on the mannequins, seeing them in the shop window and spotting them on-line, turning into fear of “Now I have to try it all on”….
I get it; change rooms can be dark, small, extra cold, extra hot and filled with horrible mirrors that point out your wobbly bits front and back in great detail.
So…Time to get your Stylist Alter Ego filling you with confidence.
Pick the stores with the great change rooms and great light in your shopping plan. Some department stores have amazing change rooms and others don’t, so perhaps shop the brands in their own beautiful stores instead. Once you are dressed, get out of the change room and find a nice big mirror with great natural lighting.
Before I get into the check list of correct the correct fit, I urge you to be really kind to yourself, if something does not fit, it not you or your body that is the problem, it is the design team that have made executive decisions on proportions, pattern, colour, fit, waist lines etc etc.
Not everything needs to fit, only the best of the bunch needs to come home with you. The item that has won your heart fair and square (more on this subject in Part 10 – The Love Factor! 💜). If nothing fits, it is all good, no need to get depressed but instead keep your focus on what you are looking for. As they say “NEXT!!”.
If you can’t stand trying things on in the shop, then go through this “Check the Perfect Fit” process at home with the tags still on and return the items that don’t make it to the 10 out of 10 list.
GREAT FITTING TOPS
So let’s delve a little deeper into all the elements that make up a perfect fit for a top. Tops are a very important part of your outfit as they are the centre of the Vital V. The Vital V starts from the top of your bust in the middle of your chest, goes around your ears to the top of your head and back to the chest. It is this area that other people look at the most as they communicate with you.
As you look at yourself in the mirror with the top on I suggest you check the following things:
✓ Is it the right size? Can you go down a size?
✓ Do you love the colour and pattern?
✓ Does the shoulder line fit well?
✓ Can you move your arms comfortably?
✓ Is the top not pulling at the widest part of the bust or at the back?
✓ Do you love the neckline and lapel?
✓ How long is the top? Too long can still make a fantastic “tucker in-ner”!
✓ Is the top cut straight at the bottom or on a curve?
✓ Does it shape you around the waist without looking super tight?
✓ Do you feel comfortable in it?
✓ Can you picture yourself matching it with lots of things in your wardrobe?
✓ How long are the sleeves?
✓ Does it need a jacket, short/long cardigan?
✓ Does it feel nice on your skin?
Often I get the client to try a size smaller in tops as they normally wear. It usually fits better in the shoulders, gives more waist definition, without being too tight around the stomach.
Shoulder lines with a set-in sleeve are always flattering so make sure the tops fits you well in your shoulders. Especially when you have a small bust and a Pear body shape this is most flattering. Raglan shoulders are non-set in sleeves. This shape suits a shape that is very wide in the upper body with a bigger bust. I have made the non-set in sleeve look flattering on all body shapes by going at least 2 sizes down.
Most necklines suit all body shapes; high round neck and turtle necks are necklines that are a little trickier for the body shape with a heavier bust. Cowl neckline is a surprisingly flattering neckline for most shapes and bust lines.
A top needs to serve you in your busy day so tightness is no good. Move your arms around as you are trying your top.
Pulling buttons on a shirt are simply annoying and will show full view of your bust. A lot of shirts are now made with lots more room in the upper body to cater for this. If there is a slight pinch, you could opt for wearing a neutral coloured singlet with a natural round neckline, sowing a press stud or moving your button right to the edge of the lapel.
Singlets by Country Road
Wearing a t-shirt bra is always flattering under tops instead of lace.
The length of tops varies a lot across all brands and it depends how you want to wear your top. Tucking into pants and skirts looks really flattering even if you have a larger stomach or hips. It gives you leg length and cushioning around stomach due to blousing your top. This will give you different styles and mix and match options especially if you add a cardigan.
I am passionate about tops that are curved on the bottom as opposed to cut very straight. It will look most flattering if a top is higher on the side and lower on the front. Even when you tuck-in you want to blouse in this scooped manner.
Here are two examples by Country Road:
Full length sleeve lengths are perfect if they finish right at your wrist as this is slimmest part of your arm. 3/4 sleeves, sleeves just above your elbow or just below are slimming as well. A cap sleeve can be flattering on narrow to medium shoulders. A short sleeve is great if it finishes above or below the nipple line to prevent your bust from looking bigger. Sleeveless is flattering on all arms as it can always be dressed up with a jacket, wrap or cardigan.
GREAT FITTING CARDIGANS
Let’s put the longer open front cardigans in one category and the shorter ones in another as there are different fit check points.
As you look at yourself in the mirror with the longer open front cardigan on, I suggest you check the following things:
✓ Is it the right size? Can you go down a size? No need to have lots of fabric at the back as it does not need to close at the front. Pick a size that fits well in your shoulders and does not sit too tight around your arms or your back. It will fit nicely around your back giving you a slimming line around your waist. The band will sit vertically over your bust line instead of cocooning your entire body like a tent. Keep on trying sizes until you have the right one. Not unusual to go 1 to 3 sizes below your regular top size.
✓ If the sleeves are a little long you can fold them under or pull them up until the bigger part of your lower arm catches the cardigan, then pull the cardigan back down over the tighter part. The least flattering is when you bunch the cardigan up lots to 3/4 sleeve or elbow, slimmer lines are always better.
✓ Length of your cardigan should be around the bottom of your finger tips when you have your arms by your side. Between the finger knuckles and bottom of your finger tips is great especially if you are small to medium in height. (see image below)
✓ Do you feel comfortable in it? Cardigans will last a few seasons and will be a great return on investment if you pick a comfortable one.
✓ Does it feel nice on your skin? If you are sensitive to itchy wools then feel the cardigan first.
✓ Can you picture yourself matching it with lots of things in your wardrobe? A neutral colour, light grey, black or charcoal are great choices.
As you look at yourself in the mirror with the shorter closed button front cardigan on, I suggest you check the following things:
✓ This cardigan type focus is more around how it looks around the bust when done up as well as how long the cardigan is.
✓ Usually to the band size of your pants or skirt is perfect as it will look nice and slim. The widest part of your hips is a no-go zone! Avoid this length at all cost.
✓ If you are looking to match a dress with a cardigan then a finish point in your waist is great. (see image below)
Here is a great visual re-cap of all the cardigans lengths. Each body is so different in proportions so go and check in the mirror what your personal ideal lengths are.
GREAT FITTING JACKETS
So let’s delve a little deeper into all the elements that make up a perfect fit for a jacket.
As you look at yourself in the mirror with the jacket on I suggest you check the following things:
✓ Is it the right size?
✓ Will it fit a jumper underneath it (in case of a winter jacket)?
✓ Does the shoulder line fit well?
✓ Can you move your arms comfortably?
✓ What is the fabric like? Ponti fabric (=a stretchy fabric) will match really with other fabrics such as polyester soft suiting or jersey.
✓ Does the zipper or buttons do up? Even though you may not wear the jacket done up, you should at least have the option.
✓ Do you love the neckline line? Do the lapels appeal?
✓ How long is the jacket? If you love wearing longer cardigans this is an important consideration for a winter jacket. If you are considering wearing the suit jacket on dresses, skirts or pants, around the hip bone is great. Straight over the widest part of your hip is the least flattering.
✓ Does it shape you around the waist without looking super tight?
✓ Do you feel comfortable in it?
✓ Can you picture yourself matching it with lots of things in your wardrobe?
✓ Do you love the colour? Is it a multi-functional colour or a beautiful classy pin stripe for work?
GREAT FITTING PANTS
As you look at yourself in the mirror with the pants on, I suggest you check the following things:
✓ How long is the rise of the pants? At least 20 Cm’s to be flattering around the stomach and to minimise the muffin top.
✓ Straight or slimmer pants are often the most flattering. The soft polyester suiting material will flow against the slimmer parts of your leg and make it look great. Stiffer fabrics will not shape you as much so the style is important. Some pants will look wide and still and if there is a slim bottom leg under it, you will look wider all over instead of accentuating this slim part.
✓ It is a myth that you need bootleg to balance out wider hips. Straight will do this job much better. Only select bootleg if you are super tall or your calves do not fit in a straight pair of pants.
✓ Is it the right size? How does the back feel? Not too gapey? Or too tight over the bottom. Polyester soft suiting material stretches a lot after wearing it for the first day so take that into consideration so you don’t buy a size too big. A size too big will start to hang at the crotch and look very unflattering. New jeans will also soften and will need to fit quite firmly, without you having to lay flat on the bed to do the zipper up!! 😜 Be firm in this decision as you pay the price for buying too big long term.
✓ Do you feel comfortable in it?
✓ Can you picture yourself matching it with lots of things in your wardrobe?
✓ How long are the legs? If you are keen to learn about the correct point to take up for your shoe size then click to Part 7 here.
✓ Does the fabric feel nice on your skin? There are plenty of fabrics that are scratchy so give this a consideration as you need to wear it for quite a few hours a day.
GREAT FITTING SKIRTS
So let’s delve a little deeper into all the elements that make up a perfect fit for a skirt.
As you look at yourself in the mirror with the skirt on I suggest you check the following things:
✓ Skirts need to fit you in your waist and therefor it is very possible that a size lower than your regular pants size will fit you best. It will hold you in nicely, the skirt will give a little as you wear it and it will be at the length the skirt was designed for. If you wear your skirts too big and they sit on your hip bone it is very likely to be too long and start twisting around your body during the day. It is also likely that the fabric around the knees sticks out and makes you look wider.
✓ Important that you feel comfortable in it. Ponti fabric or stretchy fabric work really well and a pattern can also look very flattering. If you are concerned with extra fleshy curves showing around your hips then make sure you get a (multiple) lined skirt that will keep the curves in and wear the right underwear that does not cut into your hips and stomach. Tights and shape wear will also make a big difference.
✓ Can you picture yourself matching it with lots of things in your wardrobe? Make sure in store you try and tuck a top into the skirt, blouse it over, match a cardigan with it or a nice jacket to see if it all works well.
✓ What is the length like? Just below the knee is what looks great on most women. Just above the knee is also a very flattering finish point.
GREAT FITTING DRESSES
Some women find dresses easier to wear than skirts, pants and tops and other women struggle to find a flattering dress style to cover the stomach.
As you look at yourself in the mirror with the dress on I suggest you check the following things:
✓ For dresses it is crucial that you pick the right balance between the size that fits your upper body and lower body.
✓ Does the shoulder line fit well? Does the dress fit nice and snug around your back? If the dress is very loose there it is a sign the size might now be right.
✓ Can you move your arms comfortably?
✓ Do you love the neckline line? Round, V, cowl and cross over are all very flattering dress necklines.
✓ How long is the dress? Just above or just below the knee is great!
✓ Does it shape you around the waist without looking super tight?
✓ Do you feel comfortable in it?
✓ Can you picture yourself matching it with lots of things in your wardrobe? Dressing it up with some high heels or dressing it down with some flats or boots.
✓ Does it need a jacket, short/long cardigan or shoulder wrap? Make sure that you find the jacket as well otherwise you may not get the wear out of the dress.
✓ Does it feel nice on your skin? Jersey, cotton, and polyester are all common fabrics that are used for dresses in store.
GREAT FITTING UNDERGARMENTS
Your clothes always look better with the right fitting undergarments. From bras, underwear, shape wear and stockings, the right style will work it’s magic.
I suggest you check the following things:
BRA
✓ Is your bra cup size fitting well without spilling breast tissue or huge gapes. If you have gone through a weight loss journey or a year post pregnancy it is important that you get refitted by a professional.
✓ Does your bra stay in place when you move your arms. The correct fit will not show any breast spillage under the under wire.
✓ Does the middle part of the bra sit almost flush against your breast bone?
✓ Have you hoisted your bra straps up nice and firm so that the “girls” sit in the right position.
✓ Is the new bra’s band on the firmest hook. The fabric will stretch and so you move a hook when the band has loosened.
✓ Is the band under the arms nice and wide so it tucks in extra breast tissue that flows to the back.
I get my bra’s measured by Philippa Aslanis who has fitted women around Australia for 15 years with Intimo bras. She does such a great job. If you struggle in this area, give Philippa a call, she has a team of expert fitters so no doubt there will be someone close to you. Intimo bras work for me!
UNDERWEAR
✓ Choose the style that fits your shape well, especially if the stomach area or hip area is a part of your body you would like to minimise. There are great light support briefs that can do a great job holding in the stomach.
Here are some style examples by that brand I love to wear, Intimo:
STOCKINGS & TIGHTS
✓ Choose the style that fits your shape well especially if the stomach area or hip area is a part of your body you would like to minimise.
As you try on your shoes I suggest you check the following things:
✓ Do your feet feel comfortable in the shoes? All shoes give a little; leather and suede more than patent and fabric, but if the shoes are painful from the start it is not going to get better. To help stretching shoes, I suggest you put a sock on at home for 20 minutes. I also use two band aids to stretch a certain part of the shoe more and prevent blisters.
✓ Is it the right size? Can you go up or down a size? Most shoes come in half sizes and ranges come in a B (regular) or C (wide) fitting.
✓ Can you picture yourself matching it with lots of things in your wardrobe?
✓ Wear them in store for a little while so you get a good feel for how comfortable they are.
✓ Fit the shoe according to your widest foot and use heel grips and feet gel cushions to adjust the size. In my ankle boots I may wear 1 sock on my wider foot and 2 socks on the slimmer foot to prevent my foot slipping too much in my shoe. It can cause damage to your nails if you slip too much. My podiatrist also recommends a strip of anti slip in sneakers under the tongue of the sneaker to prevent moving forward (works a treat).
✓ Bunions on feet are a huge issue and can cause extreme discomfort. Many of my clients have them. Too tight or too high shoes can make the chances of you developing bunions worse.
YOUR NEXT PART IS ONLY A CLICK AWAY!
Part 10 – The Love Factor
Wouldn’t it be great to have every single item in your wardrobe being a 10 out of 10! How exciting would getting dressed be? No more trying many different outfits on before you get the “one” that you will wear that day. How much happier would you be if everything that you wear feels comfortable and looks great.
Love can mean many things to different women. For some it is the way it looks, the way it feels and for others it is the number of compliments they receive. For many it is all of the above.
Part 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 Quick Links
Did you miss the last few weeks of articles here are quick links:
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ABOUT ANGELA BARBAGALLO
Angela Barbagallo is one of the brightest minds in personal styling and confidence coaching today.
Angela has educated her many clients in making great style choices, which translates into increased feelings of well-being and a positive attitude in life.
Angela is a body shape and colour expert and a best selling author on Amazon of two style books “8 Ways to Look Fabulous, Taller and Slimmer” and “The Real Woman’s Guide to Hair”.
Angela is the NSW Independent Style Consultant for Diana Ferrari since 2011 as part of their Fusion Reward Program.
Angela also collaborates with Corporate Clients such as Bank of America, Jetstar and Bupa with her “Dress for Success” program.
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